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Saturday, January 28, 2023

The watch that elevated industrial materials to the category of luxury


aluminum and rubber. With these unexpected materials, more typical of industry and construction than the world of luxury, in 1988 the House of Bulgari shaped one of the most modern and pioneering pieces in watchmaking art: Bulgari Aluminium, a watch with a sporty spirit and a graphic combination of black and white, able to accompany a generation in the nineties and transcend the following one. Because if something sets the 2020 new models apart, it’s their ability to transcend any era, age, gender or trend.

“Masterpieces capture the crowd from the moment they appear and last forever,” says Bulgari Watchmaking Director Antoine Pin. “Bulgari Aluminum not only represents a masterful design, but thanks to its authenticity and the combination of industrial materials it represents a milestone in the history of the watchmaking industry.” It also represented a before and after in the annals of the jewelry company itself. On the one hand, the choice of this underlines Components Bulgari’s confidence in its own mastery, able to decontextualize and work any material, elevating it to the level of its famous portfolio of precious metals and gemstones. On the other hand, this innovative and irreverent design, which was able to break down the barriers between fine jewelry and sports watches, laid the foundation for a philosophy: borders should be crossed and conventions should be questioned.

Another peculiarity of this high-flying watch – the livery of the Alitalia 747 jumbo jet was inked in the watch’s colors for its launch – is that it was unintentionally given an unusual unisex dimension at the time, when the size of the box defined the genre of the piece. For this reason, twenty years later, it is still inherently a current and provocative model.

The three models of the new Bulgari aluminum family – black dial, white dial and Chronograph 40mm–, reviving the Italian firm’s transgressive and elegant heritage while adapting to the present with subtle changes in its silhouette. Thus, the mechatronic quartz movement has been replaced by a fully integrated self-winding mechanical movement, the result of the Bulgari Manufacture, something that would convince (and reassure) Cortázar himself.

In terms of comfort, the new shape of the grips adapts to the size of the case and adapts better to our wrist. Materials have also changed slightly, with stronger aluminum alloy and upgraded rubber. The result of all this is a smart and elegant timepiece that flirts with the boundaries of sophistication and sportiness to dress every wrist and every occasion.


Source elpais.com

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