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Saturday, May 28, 2022

just carry on

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meIt looked like a normal fashion show: models dressed in 1980s tweed suits, long coats for fall and winter, cocktail reception dresses. But should it have been at Chanel? No comment on the war? As usual? Does it just continue? It just didn’t work. Although the prêt-à-porter, which ended on Wednesday after a week, used all the arts of illusion, with street-style photographers at the door, with the aroma of huge bouquets of flowers, with sparkling champagne in the cup – It just didn’t work. Because the news reaches everywhere, even at the Espace Ephemère, the marquee on the Champs de Mars in front of the Eiffel Tower, where Chanel shows her runway shows while the Grand Palais is being renovated.

alphonse kaiser

Editor in charge of the “Germany and the World” department and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Magazin.

“I read the news today, oh boy,” Chanel sound designer Michael Gaubert suddenly played towards the end, “A Day in the Life” by the Beatles. And one was almost glad that Virginie Viard did not dismiss the news of the Russian invasion of Ukraine with the usual industry cynicism. Giorgio Armani simply did not have music recorded in Milan. But it was also a way of not ignoring everything: “I saw a movie today, oh boy / The English army had just won the war.” It was an anti-war anthem for John Lennon, as is arguably Virginie Viard, who grew up listening to the Beatles before turning to punk and eventually joining Chanel, where on Tuesday she unveiled a retro collection whose simplicity captured the mood. , although she was made before the war started.

If only everyone had heard the shot! So maybe Matthew Williams could have retouched at Givenchy, not having to send all the camouflage looks down the runway, which are now to be taken as an allusion to evil, not the martial appearances, which are labeled “cool” here, even though they’re in the real meaning, which has been brutally emerging for the last two weeks, is just killers. Not every Matthew Williams is a Demna Gvasalia who can twist fashion beyond recognition.

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In the end, a name was missing from the Prêt-à-Porter calendar. Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin’s fashion show has been cancelled. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode had asked him to distance himself from Russia’s war against Ukraine. it didn’t. After all, Russia is its most important market, so it doesn’t want to alienate the rich and beautiful. After all, he is close to war simply because he designed the uniforms of Russian soldiers. Ralph Toledano, the president of the fashion chamber, had no choice. He had asked that the shows be organized “with due seriousness”. He asked the 110 members of the Federation to make donations to the Ukrainian refugees. You can’t go on like this, “for two hours outside of Paris, monstrous things are happening.” However, Yudashkin showed off his extremely feminine collection on YouTube; after all, he worked on the designs for a year.


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