The hole (pronounce jewel) is a snack for life Cordovan Subbetica consisting of a muffin with coo (a mix of almond and cocoa nougat) and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. One of the many peculiarities of this region with 14 cities in the southeast of the province, in the middle of Andalusia, a stone’s throw from the capital Cordoba, Granada and Málaga. A destination that is on the rise as a result of the pandemic for motorhome tourism thanks to its commitment to urban, public and free parking that complement its offer campsites. We’ll hop from one to the other, traveling in a mobile home and as a family (with a seven-year-old boy) through an area of natural, historical and ethnographic wealth that is as rich as it is little-known.
The blue hour in a courtyard of Rute
In which Cordovan Subbetica It is hot in July and August. A lot of. Which does not mean that it cannot be visited in summer. Adhering to a few rules, of course: outdoor activities are carried out in the early or late afternoon when it gets cooler; The central hours of the day are spent indoors or in the bathroom. We fulfilled the bid on the letter in Rute, where we arrived late in the afternoon and after we left Camper At the camper place, it’s time to enjoy a pleasant walk through the pine forest and say hello to the donkeys of the Adebo Refuge (Association for the Defense of the Borrico) from the other side of the fence, since their facilities are not open to the public .
Then it’s time to meet them Anise Museum (there were 14 distilleries in this city, four of which are still active), the brandy cellar and the Courtyard with leprechaun, winner of three first prizes in the Courtyards of Cordoba competition and open all year round. In its wonderful freshness of water and flowers comes the blue hour, the one in which the natural light that wanes mixes with the artificial, according to the owner Anselmo Córdoba, spacious, talkative, the perfect host. The evening ends with dinner at The Orange Trees, where we discovered the scrambled eggs with collejas and made sure whoever recommended the fried aubergines with honey wasn’t wrong. It might take longer because Rute is at parties. It is rare to visit Cordoba’s Subbética in summer and not come across a celebration, festival or cultural program of a patron saint in one of its cities, towns or districts.
Rafting in the Genil and sailing in the Iznájar reservoir
We arrived at the tree park camping from Benamejí, managed by the Sports center Alua, at ten in the morning. We leave the child, equipped with a helmet and harness imitating Tarzan, for a tour of the facilities, which include a swimming pool and a campsite for tents and RVs. Alúa organizes active tourism proposals in the area with two summer epicentres: Rafting on the Genil River, with a more active section and a quieter section for families; and the Iznajar reservoirthe largest in Andalusia, with its Valdearenas beach and its water sports center where you can sail, paddle, windsurf or take a boat trip.
Oil and Baroque in Priego de Córdoba
The next stop is in the camper area of Priego de Córdoba, the most monumental city in the Subbética of Córdoba with Lucena (and its Jewish necropolis) and Cabra. Priego de Córdoba is also one of the three Designations of Origin (DO) for extra virgin olive oil in the region, along with Lucena and Baena. After a stroll through the baroque churches, fountains – it is essential to see the Fuente del Rey – and palace houses it is unavoidable to buy a bottle of Rincón de la Subbética Subbética oil millsthe best organic extra virgin olive oil in the world according to the Evoo World Ranking 2021. A good idea here is to do a tasting Vizcantar oils, which offers a route through old olive trees on a farm in neighboring Almedinilla, including a miller’s snack. We are in perfect territory for learning to distinguish the extra native from the lampante (which was traditionally used to power lamps or oil lamps). So much information sits happily in the La Zamora restaurantalready in the municipality of Carcabuey, with salmorejo and oxtail.
The Carcabuey Geopark
The caravan area of Carcabuey is an excellent base camp to get to know the natural park and the surrounding area Geopark of the Sierras Subbéticas. 90% of the municipality is covered by the predominant olive groves, mixed with patches of original Mediterranean forest (not resettled) and limestone reliefs, heritage of the ancient Tethys Sea. The Route of Fountains and Springs, very easy and refreshing, is one of the many available to hikers. There are also two routes for mountain bikes, MTB North and MTB South, both of which are connected. The emblematic peak of La Tiñosa (in the municipality of Priego de Córdoba), at 1,570 meters the highest in the province, can be climbed on a public path from June 2nd.
The extraordinary creatures that inhabited the seabed of Tethys were petrified in the Jurassic limestone from which the municipality of Cabra was built, and now they gleam in plazas, fountains and facades. Jurassic Goat proposes to discover them on a geological route that passes through 12 neuralgic points of the city, in search of oolites, crinoids, ammonites, talasinoids or rhyncholites (calcified jaw tips of ammonites). The activity, which can be booked free of charge at the tourist office or online, includes a discovery bag for children with measuring and observation material and plasticine to mold. It is recommended to start the route with a visit to the Jurassic Goat Interpretation Centerand complement it by following marked routes for hiking through the Natural Park.
To Zuheros along the Green Oil Route
“Mom, the climb to this town is harder than the bike path,” says the boy as he climbs the 500-meter escarpment Zuheroswhite city with its photogenic castle and member of the Association of the most beautiful cities in Spain. We arrived here on a bike ride of about four kilometers along the Green Oil Route, which runs for 128 kilometers between Cordoba and Jaén and is the longest in Andalusia. We left about 20 minutes ago RV park Doña Mencíaprivately run public, with 47 places and reduced prices, electricity and shower facilities and very popular with foreigners and families: if it received 800 in the first four months of 2019 camper, in the same period of 2022 there were 2,500. Active tourism company Dxocio manages the area and the adjacent bicycle center, where bicycles are repaired and rented out to commuters.
Zuheros shows its different faces from a network of vantage points that run along its perimeter. Its interior is criss-crossed by narrow streets flanked by facades carefully decorated with flowers. One of them corresponds charming country hotel Zuhayra, in whose restaurant you can taste the famous Zuheros cheese, which stars in a huge outdoor party on the third weekend of September. After you have recovered, amazing nature awaits you on the other side of the Castle Square with the Bailón River Canyon and the prehistoric Los Murciélagos Cave, one of the jewels of this UNESCO Global Geopark since 2006. “There are almost 400 caves in the nature park, although only a few can be visited,” says the guide. “This country is like a sponge full of micropores; When it rains, all the water comes out,” he compares.